Kandahar

Apr 09, 2008

PASS TO PARADISE

“Kandahar” --- the name evokes echoes of mountain-passes, snow-capped peaks, bone-chilling weather….and meats roasting over slow fires in smoky dhaabas.
However, when one enters “Kandahar” the speciality Indian restaurant at the Oberoi, one is greeted by a cheery and somewhat antiseptic melange of cream walls, parquet flooring, polished brass and potted palms. Tasteful? Yes. Bright? VERY….and so lacking in atmosphere! Not helped by the tinkle-tonk of the “live entertainment” --- Bollywood hits played on the Jaltarang.
But the food belies the initial impression that says “nothing special”. Because this restaurant serves what can only be called Grand Classical Gourmet North-Indian cuisine, correctly and exquisitely prepared. And expensive!
The starters are pretty much what you would expect. Tandoori Jhinga (jumbo-sized), Barra Kebabs, Sheesh Kebabs, Chicken Tikka and Malai Kebab, which I found to be among the best I’ve ever had, delicately flavoured with yoghurt and spices.
One of the signature entrees (and among the most expensive) of this restaurant is the Raan. And deservedly so, as it is almost a religious experience. A leg of prime lamb, marinated and simmered over a slow fire for ages, it truly melts in the mouth. Dry and subtly-flavoured, its a must-have for those who think of Indian cuisine as perennially “oily and spicy”. And instead of accompanying this with the ubiquitous Biryani (which would have made the meal death-by-meat!) we chose something unusual; and not on the menu. That rarest of rare delicacies from Kashmir, “Guchhi” (wild mushrooms) in a curry flavoured with saffron and served with white rice. This was truly special, an explosion of myriad tastes on the palate...though somewhat short-changed on the saffron!
But this is nit-picking. Even at marginally less than its best, this restaurant is formidable. And, before I forget, mention must be made of the divine Rasmalai that concluded the meal. Sweet and succulent, it benefitted by the addition of more crushed nuts and spices, which were readily provided on request. And the ultimate wash-down – the magnificent Kahva, aromatic tea with herbs and spices (also from Kashmir) served in an authentic copper samovar.
An entire meal, with superlative service, at over Rs. 4000 for two, not including alcohol. Definitely NOT cheap! But then, neither is the experience.
And if they were to dim the lights, throw out the kitschy “entertainment” and make the décor more characterful; every meal could well become a lingering memory.

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